The bus was waiting, so we loaded our cases into the trunk, then climbed onboard and waited for the others. And once all on board, the bus moved off, ramming every speed bump and pot hole, and out onto the main road.
Through a park, where whole families were sleeping under plastic sheeting, then into the traffic, to much honking of horns.
We drive for half an hour through the suburbs of Delhi, turning this way and that, always with the honking of horns, until we came to the “expressway”.
This took us out into the countryside, as the city thinned out, but already new commuter railways stations had been built, in preparation for new areas of housing.
The day was sunny, but hazy due to smog, so the fields and trees meted into the brown haze in the middle distance.
Then onto the motorway, across fields, now at harvest time were families gather in their corn, making little sheaves, and once dried, the sheaves were stacked into hayricks. Mile after mile, hour after hour, the same scene.
Only broken at one town where there were dozens of brickworks, marked by elongated kiln chimneys belching black smoke. Oher bricks were laid in long lines to dry and harden in the sun.
We came in time to Agra, turning off the motorway and straight into a busy shopping street, and along in heavy traffic until we came to the hotel, crossing six lanes of traffic and entering the heavy sliding gates, to more air-conditioned luxury.
In the lobby we were bedecked with garlands of flowers, and given frozen fruit juice, while our check in was done.
Another huge room awaited us, with queen bed, air con and basket of fruit. Just half an hour before lunch, and another buffet meal, with selections of curries, dahls and rice to choose from, as well as salad, fruit and a large selection of deserts.After lunch, the others went birding in the hotel grounds. It was climbing close to forty degrees, and too warm for us, so here I am writing.
At four we meet up in the lobby to head out for a viewpoint the other side of the river from the Taj, this will involve a long coach trip along narrow streets, clogged with all sorts of traffic, and again to the soundtrack of two thousand horns.
The tip was worth it on its own, gaudy neon lit shops, to stalls and shacks set up in the gutter, and all along, tuk-tuks pulling up to pick up or drop of passengers, and mad motorcyclists and moped riders trying to get through the narrowest of gaps.
It was an amazing free show.We came to the view point, with a mile walk from the car park to the park, and in the late afternoon heat past beggars, hawkers and stalls selling pop and cold water along with endless tat.
Through the park and through a small wood, with monkeys and small striped squirrels scattering, clambering onto a low and wide wall, there was the Taj in the late afternoon sun.
Jools arrived, flushed and overheating as she had not worn her hat. I gave her my water as well as her own, and sitting in the shade for 45 minutes she began to feel better.
The sun went down, we got shots, then ambled back to the car, all of us stopping to buy ice cold drinks from the shack, then along the road, nearly a mile to the bus park, past a huge park where young men were playing rough cricket in the gathering dusk.
Onto the bus, air con to full, and we lurch off once again, back the way we came, though this time in darkness. Quite how more people are not killed is beyond me.
Neon lit up the night, bells clanged in shrines, and families strode around looking for bargains, or young men looking for young women. Back along to the bridge, then over the river as its still surface mirrored the pastel sky, and into darkness the other side, as the headed back to the hotel.
Horns redoubled as the coach bounced along the rough roads, round the big roundabout near the main entrance to the Taj, before turning sharp left into the hotel grounds, where there was still time for dinner.
Though we were hot and bothered, we ate and drank, but soon bed was calling, as it seemed bright idea to get up the next morning early to catch wheels at five and see sunrise from beside the Taj Mahal.
































