Friday 24th July 2026

Due to a cock up, we had to travel 120 miles back north for our next hotel.

But it would mean the chance to visit Troyes and its cathedral.

We dozed until half seven, then both had showers before getting dressed and going down for breakfast.

The workers who stay at the hotel had long gone, so it was just us and the cyclists who were eating at eight to half past.

Although the choice was limited, and the state of the bacon would make any Dane angry, I had some fruit, bread and lots of coffee.

And then load the car, check it over one last time. Hand the keys in at reception, climb in the car and drive to the end of the road, then onwards to the motorway, turning north towards Troyes, Paris and Lille.

It was a very quiet morning on the roads, so was an enjoyable cruise at seventy over the high ground, past where we were to spend the next two nights and into Troyes.

Again.

We parked again at the Cathedral parking house, though this time cross the river, and above the roofs I could see the bell tower of the cathedral.

There she is.

It was half eleven by the time we entered, and all was going well until quarter to twelve when we were told we had to vacate the Sanctuary as Mass was about to be held at middy.

I rush a few shots at what look to be the oldest glass, I guess being 13th century, and we leave the Nave as the bell stuck twelve.

Jools wasn't feeling to sharp, so lunch was out, so we walked back to the car and drive back south to where our next hotel was.

We paid the two Euro fee, leave the garage, and on the surface we find it was just a thirty minute drive to Bar-Sur-Seine, where our hotel was next to the railway station.

Be still my beating heart.

The plan was to go to the next services for a drink, a bite to eat and fill up, only to find half of Europe beat us to it, and the place was rammed.

We tried to fill up, but the guy at the pumps took some fifteen minutes to work out how to get fuel out. So, once he left, we got a pump and was soon full of motion lotion and fighting our way through the abandoned cars back to the motorway.

Twelve miles further on, we turn off, and drive down a wooded valley to the village.

We found the hotel, though couldn't check in until three.

So we drive to Essoyes, where Pierre-Auguste Renoir lived and worked, as he loved the light.

Village after village was full of Champagne warehouses, and the hillsides full of green laden vines.

By the river in Essoyes, we find a place to park, and due to the heat walk a small circle either side of the river, then take a seat at the restaurant at a table under a parasol.

We order lunch, including a bottle of the local champagne, as why not?

And it was a dry crisp brew, and I savoured every last drop with rare steak and some local cheeses for dessert.

We drove to our hotel in the village of Bar.

Bar-sur-Seine. That is.

Checked in and went to our room, and after ten minutes of shouting at the TV, managed to find the on switch so I could watch the last 100km of Le Tour, as the riders battled up Alpe d'Huez.

It was amazing stuff. And being in France kinda made it better.

Kinda.

We ate in the hotel, a bloody burger each, and me a huge glass of Leffe Ruby, which was very good indeed.

I took part in the quiz, but jumped in too quick and was very wrong indeed.

And that was that, the 5th day of the road trip.