Monday, 29 September 2008

Under the Tuscan Sun; the honeymoon, day 2

We awoke after some 11 hours sleep, feeling much refreshed. And after a breakfast of exspressos made into Americanos and some jam on the remaining bread and it was time to head out into the Tuscan countryside proper.

Casalone

Our destination was a town called Montalcino, a place I had visited before, and where they make a stunning deep red wince called Brunello. It seemed simple enough to find, or so we thought, and headed east to where we had to make our first turning. We ended up turning onto the narrow streets of Civitella Maritima, where the ‘streets’ were just wide enough for our car, and twisted and turned upwards before heading back down and around before depositing us back where we started. We did miss the second turning completely, and headed further east past other ancient Tuscan hilltop towns; Monte this, Monte something else, before we realised we were about to head off the side of the photocopied map we had and so into the unknown.

Montenero

We headed what we thought was north, and in doing so got us back on the right road, and as the road plunged up and down into and out of old towns once again built on hilltops, each one looking more and more spectacular, each with stunning views of either wooded valleys or golden arable fields stretching into the blue distance. There are worse places to get lost in.

Montalcino

Montalcino appeared on signposts again, and about two hours later than we thought, we arrived at the town gates. Parking was a problem as the Tour of Tuscany cycle race was also arriving, but up another steep hill amongst some houses we found a place and walked down into the mediaeval town.

montalcino

At this point words fail me as I try to describe the town; old town houses nestle beside each other, on street level most had a shop or Taverna; I quickly bought a bottle of 2003 Brunello from a small producer, some herbs and porcini mushrooms for dinner. We came across a street market and bought more tasty things; cheesy bread the texture of Madera Cake; a candle made of beeswax, some jam; all wonderful things.

montalcino

Into a café for a couple of Americanos and something chocolaty to eat, before more exploring, and the view I knew was there; all over the southern Tuscan countryside, from a viewpoint on the edge of a cliff hundreds of feet high, and the golden fiends stretching apparently forever into the distance and time.

Montalcino

We climbed to the top of the town, beside the ancient church, looked down narrow alleyways with views of the fields far below, we followed the cobbled streets back out of the town gates and past the castle now filled with tired and sweaty cyclists, back up the hill to the car, and so then back west to our place in the monastery and dinner of pasta, porcini mushrooms, some random Italian herbs, fresh asparagus with shavings of parmesan cheese, all washed down with more Tuscan wine. And outside the sun set again in spectacular fashion.

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