And so the Royal nuptials have been completed, kisses on balcony have been given and taken, and, dear reader, have missed it all. Or rather we did not miss it at all. But more about our adventures on this day a little later.
We left home, it seems like an age ago, but was only nine in the morning of yesterday. We got up with the larks, packed, Jools to the cats to the cattery and I did some gardening. Really. I sprinkled lawn feed and then watered it in.
Jools arrived back with the news that Mulder had an accident and so his basket and the car stunk of cat poo. Yay! That cleaned up, we loaded the car and headed off into the end of the morning rush hour. There are some advantages living four miles from Dover, the best, other than the views from the cliffs, is being only a 5 minute drive from the docks. We drove down Jubilee Way, right at the roundabout, through customs and up to the check in desk, got our confirmation and boarding pass, and drove to the boarding lane. All in ten minutes of leaving home.
Not bad.
We drove onto the ferry at ten, and were under way in half an hour; time enough to get a coffee and a bun before the queues began as we arrived in Calais and it was time to head down to the car.
I fired up the sat-nav, punched in the address of the hotel. It thought about this a while and then came up with our route. The ramp came down, the cars drove off, as did we, and we were on our way through France to Belgium and onto Germany.
Traffic was not too bad at first, and the route into Belgium we knew well anyway, so it was pleasant enough. We then headed towards Brussels, and it was there that we hit traffic big time. Although it did not hold us up much, and once clear of the city and it’s ring road, we were speeding through the verdant countryside at 80mph in alternately bright sunshine and heavy showers.
In tie the road began to climb into the Eifel Mountains, and the views became spectacular. The road crossed massive viaducts, with views of deep valleys and little alpine looking towns in the distance. We crossed into Germany and the motorway gave out, but the speed of the locals apparently doubled as we were passed by a succession of Mercs and Beamers going something near the speed of sound. And scattered over the hills as far as the eye could see were numerous wind turbines, some even emblazoned with the name of the company I work for.
As the time neared six and then seven, we were getting nearer to our destination, and after finally finding a service station, and having filled with gas, we put our foot down and made it to the turning for Cochem. The road passed through a pretty village before dropping quickly into a twisty ravine with wooded cliffs towering above us. This continued for four Km, until we came into the finges of the town, sheltering under these massive cliffs.
Once we came to the banks of the river we turned north and then left up a side street, under the railway and there was our hotel. We quickly checked in as two of our friends had decided to stop here on their way back home, so we could meet up for a meal and a few drinks.
We walked into town and met Matt and Dadi in the main square; it was a good meeting as we had not seen them in months. And then we set out to find a place to eat. We chose a hotel on the banks of the river with fine views to the far banks and the rising vineyards beyond.
After finishing our pepper steak supper we found a small bar in which we could get a quiet corner and talk some more, before it became clear that we were shattered after our long drive and so we decided to head back to the hotel and take to our beds.
We fell asleep to the sound of freight trains thundering past, which seemed to go on for most of the night, but we heard them little.
Friday morning dawned cool but bright; and so Jools and I went for a quick walk before breakfast, just as the town was waking up. As everywhere, deliveries were being made before the shoppers and browsers were out and about. We stopped at the bridge to watch the swallows swoop and dive catching bugs in the early morning air. It was all rather wonderful.
The four of us then walked back into town so we could ride the cable car to the top of the valley. For most of its length through Germany, the Mosel runs in a deep valley, with vineyards up the lower slopes on both sides. Towns are situated beside the river and the valley sides, and roads and a railway run on one or both sides of the valley. The valley meanders in stunning lazy bends, with towns appearing like scenes from a fairy story as you go along. And Cochem is the main town along the valley, it has cobbled streets, timber-framed houses and lots of bars, places to eat and many more places in which to sample the local wines.
We walk back up the road out of the valley to the cable car station, pay our 5 euros and wait for a car. I say car, it’s a two seat thing suspended from the wire, and once we are swept off our feet, the car rises steeply u the valley side leaving the hustle and bustle of the town far below. Soon our feet are passing through the tops of bird-filled trees; its all rather splendid. Again.
At the top we are instantly rewarded with stunning views down to the town and along the valley in both directions. It is a cliché to say the cars and trains below looked like toys, but no other words really describe the view. And even better, for most of the path to the best view, there are no barriers, with the efficient Germans apparently thinking that the thought of a drop of two hundred metres was warning enough.
Needless to say, we took loads and loads of photographs, but already the heat of the was becoming uncomfortable, and we made our way to the café which had its own fine views for a little liquid refreshment. Just soft drinks this time, it was before eleven. And we took a table right on the edge of the terrace with views down to the town and railway below. Magical.
And then it was time for us to part, and our friends had to get some lunch before heading back to England and we, of course, had four more days of our vacation left. We walked back to the hotel, picked up the car keys and drove off for destinations unknown.
We headed off south, through the town and along the road that follows the river; we passed through picturesque village after picturesque village, all with its own vineyards and places offering wine tasting. Outside the villages, the sides of the valley rose sheer above us, but even still, they were covered with vines, sometimes it looked that the slope was over 60%, amazing that people can stand on these slopes let alone are able to harvest and tend the vines.
We came to a fine looking town just after one, and it seemed like lunchtime and so we pulled in, found somewhere to park and began to explore. As is the way along the Mosel, the streets of the town were narrow, cobbled and lined with timber-framed houses. Off the main street we saw what looked a fine place with tables on the streets. We sat down and ordered schnitzel with beer for me and a sweet white wine for Jools.
The meal came with a huge pile of fresh asparagus in a white sauce.
We set off again down the valley, at each town taking the road out that followed the river bank. At three we stopped again, at twin towns; one on either bank of the river We parked under a bridge which crossed the river, and on the eastern bank once had a gate house to guard the town.
We climbed up some steep steps into the town, and walked along the main street. Our plan was for ice cream, and as it turned out, this would be successful we as came on an ice cream parlour, and ordered what we would call a sundae back home, but here is a becher. The ice creams came in over-size wine glasses, huge and covered in cream, sauce and nuts. It was a meal in itself.
And then as the shadows lengthened, we headed back to Cochem, along the same roads we had travelled.Back in time for a snooze before the task of the evening, to find somewhere to eat. At the restaurant I ordered ham and cheese salad, or that’s what the menu said; when it arrived it was processed cheese and spam cut into strips; not what I was expecting and very underwhelming.
Saturday dawned bright and with the sun just rising above the top of the valley. We quickly had breakfast and headed out as we had to catch a train into Koblenz, as we had a date to meet one of my Flickr contacts. I even was able to buy or tickets from the machine, and then it was a case of waiting on the low platform for the train to arrive.
Right on time the train pulled in, we got on and climbed the stairs to the upper level as these carriages had two floors, and took up or seats on the side so we could look over the river as we travelled north. As it was a local service, it must have stopped a dozen times, each time people got on; many were football fans, heading to Cologne for a big game. Friends met up, beers were opened and toasts for luck made.
As ever, walking out of the railway station in a strange town can be bewildering, but we followed the signs to the ‘Altstadt’ the old town, and see where that would lead us. Right into the main shopping area it seemed. As it was getting warm, we found a café and ordered orange juices and iced coffees and watched the world go by. Not bad really.
After drinking our fill, we found a bank, got some money, and then made our way back to the station to meet my friend, Gergorius, of Gunter as I later found was his real name. Amazingly, his train was delayed, and so we waited in a bar near the station and ordered beer and garlic bread. The day got hotter, and we watched folks come and go from the station.
At one y friend arrived, and with the wonders of modern technology, our mobiles, we found each other and set off for the old town and the confluence of the two rivers, the Rheine and Mosel at a place called Deutche Ecke, or German corner. Sadly, for us, the area is limited for access as there is a huge flower show on all summer, but if you know the way to go, it is still possible to get to the corner and take in the view.
Gunter had thought that the best thing to do would be to go on a cruise on the river, so we walked along to the Rheine and found a kiosk, bought our tickets and with an hour to wait, what better way than to have a drink?
And so at three we boarded the boat, took our position at a table near the back, ordered yet more beers from the waitress and waited for the trip to begin. In reality it was a simple cruise out of the city, turn round and back again with a look at the German Corner, and that was it; not even much of a commentary, but good enough, especially in the warm weather with freight trains ratting along and over the river to keep me interested.
Once over we walked through the old town, found an old square, we took a table and had a farewell drink and then we made our way back to the station only to find we had missed our train my a couple of minutes. No worry, we took a seat in a café, and waited the 40 minutes for the next train, an express, which got us back to Cochem just 15 minutes later than the earlier train.
Time then to walk into town, and up one of the steep sidestreets following signs to a little Italian place; we both ordered schnitzel, but mine came in a rich butter and cheese sauce, which was not unpleasant. On the way back to the hotel, the streets we almost empty, as were the bars and restaurants.
Sunday, the 1st of May.
Another beautiful morning, clear blue skies and sunshine, once the sun rose above the valley side. After breakfast we walked along the river to see if there were any boat cruises to be had; there were, aqnd once again we found ourselves on a boat waiting for departure.
We ordered coffee and a slice of cheesecake each, and took in the passing scenery. The weather was beautiful, without a breath of wind, up past Cochem we went, turned round and headed upstream past a couple of small towns, turned round again and back to the dock. Doesn’t sound exciting, but it was wonderful, the colours and the air filled with birdsong.
We docked and we got off, through the crowds gathering for the next departure, and into the town, up the narrow alley from the previous night, past many houses and bars built on an increasingly steep hill. We stopped at a fine viewing point, not quite at the castle to marvel at the scene of the long wide bend in the river and the town beside it.
It was too warm now to continue to the castle, and so we walked back down to the town, and right in the main square took a table on the cobbles and ordered iced coffee and apple strudel with cream and ice cream. And we sat there and ate it, taking in the scene whilst being serenaded by a busker singing traditional Irish folk songs, a little out of place but good enough.
Monday, we decided to head out on the train again, this time to the town of Trier, which is the largest in the region. As before, after breakfast we made our way to the station and waited; a couple of freight trains rattled through and so I snapped them, and then our train, an express pulled in. We got good window seats and away we went. It took 50 minutes to reach Trier, we passed through tunnels, over bridges spanning the river and through lush farmland.
At Trier Hbf, we got off and watched the train leave to continue its journey into Luxembourg, just a few miles away. We left through the main entrance and were confronted by a typical modern European city. There were tourist signs, and one pointing towards Porta Nigra, the black gate. It is the finest preserved Roman city gate, and is three stories high and still in use as part of the city museum.
I snapped it and we walked on. We really should have gone to take a closer look, but there were a lot of tourists around it, each in groups with a guide. We prefer the independent way.
After a cup of coffee in a fabulous building, we headed toward the market square and the cathedral beyond. The square was fantastic, all huge timber framed buildings with ornate carvings. And leading from the square was a wide road leading to the cathedral,or rather the complex of churches and cathedrals. Sadly one was closed for renovation, but the cathedral was open, and we went inside to be greeted with a fantastic building with massive carvings, memorials. A wonder for sure. I took pictures, but we had to leave at midday as a service was to begin.
We went outside and at a pavement cafe we ordered salad with drinks and watched the world go by in the huge square. And then it was time to do some more walking to find the amphitheatre.
But first we came on a huge Roman Basilica, all built with flat bricks, clearly Roman; it was stunning to find, and still in use today. Inside it was simple with little decoration and clear windows, but the age of the building is simply staggering.
We followed the signs through a huge park, past another Roman church, this time just the remains, but still another huge building. The signs took us through a residential neighbourhood, over a railway line and up towards open countryside, and there it was. Or the entrance.
Unlike the collesium, this amphitheatre was built into the side of a hill, and is largely intact. It is now a grass filled bowl, and a new floor has been laid on wooden supports to show it would have looked some 1600 years ago.
Time then to head back into town, finish off my shots in the cathedral, have an ice cream in a parlour in the main part of town, and then catch the five o'clock train back to Cochem. Another good day.
That night we went to a restaurant on the east bank to have something to eat, and watch the sun go down behind the valley sides. We ordered schnitzel and watch barges ply their way up and down the river, swallows swoop for food and just enjoy ourselves.
And then dawned Tuesday, and time to go home. we packed, loaded the car and after breakfast, set off, hoping to make the four o'clock sailing from Calais. It was a rush, but we did it with an hour to spare, and soon enough we were heading back to Blighty; and from our table we could see the white cliffs and on them, the first houses of our own village, St Margaret's.
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