Friday 11th April 2025

Last day in Tadoba. Last half day in fact.

So, up before the larks, it was still dark, to be on the jeeps out of camp at quarter to six to be at the park entrance by six.

We went in by a different gate, so to see a different part of the park, this time around lakes and wetlands. It was know that the target was a Tigress an her three year-old cubs, though they’re not really cubs now.

For the first two hours we did a bit of light birding down by the lake, waders, ibis, ducks, geese and so on. As well as beds upon beds of Lotus flowers.

It was an altogether more peaceful morning.

Until the shout went out over the net, and well sped towards a known watering hole, going at max permissible speed and then some.

When we got there, there was thirty other jeeps, their drivers vying for space and caring little of the consequences.

The four tigers appeared and after some thought, they walked through the middle of the vehicles, growling as they went.

Next was even worse.

They were going to cross a public road, and again all jeeps raced to the spot, blocked the road so that kids could not get to school or drivers go about their business. We were triple parked, no one could get by, and when the tigers came there was more revving of engines, and although the Mother crossed over, the cubs didn’t.

It was all very ugly, with much shouting at drivers by guides, so it was decided that two jeeps, including ours, would leave and go back to the lake. This is what I feared safaris in Africa would be like, and to be part of one here in India is not good, no matter how mice the photos may be.

It’s the welfare of the animals that should count.

We went back to the gate, then to the camp, giving us an hour and a half to pack and so on before lunch at midday, and wheels at one.

Lunch was as before.

We settled our bar tab and other bills, made sure our cases were outside our room, and then waited for departure.

We had a five hour drive back north round Nagpur to Pench.

The first part we had done a few days before, and the driving was as mad as ever. And it was hot with it. Even with the air con on max we struggled to say cool. Then round the ring road, where traffic was also crazy. In that there appear to be no rules.

Lorries chug along in the outside lane, and the rest has to get by on the inside lane, if there wasn’t even slower trucks and buses there. In addition, motorcycles were using the hard shoulder to come in the opposite direction to the carriageway travel.

We saw an India in flux, a mix of the old, the poor and bright, brash new India, all neon signs and aspirational ads. It all mixes into one pot and is India for all that.

After three hours we stopped at a service station where we bought ice cream, fizzy pop and snacks, before getting back in for the last 90 minutes.

We turned off the state road, and straight into the park, registered and drove to our camp.

Resort.

Altogether more upmarket. We were greeted with face painting, ice salted lemon drinks before our passports were taken to register us.

We were shown to our cottages, with two showers (one inside and one out), shower, bath, seats inside and out with a fire pit outside. Our cases were delivered, so we had a shower before dinner at eight, but with beers in the bar before.