Under the Tuscan Sun; the honeymoon, day 4

We awoke with the pan to head off to see two of the more famous hilltop town in the far east of the region; Pienza and Montepuliciano. It was the same route as on Sunday to Montalcino, so we could put away the maps and just enjoy the journey over the rolling fields and through the wonderful towns on the way. Once again the weather was really good, almost clear blue skies but with those fluffy clouds only seen in children’s tales.

The drive down the side of the hill from Montalcino was amazing, a 10 minute thrill of bend after hairpin bend with no crash barriers, and stunning views over the way we were yet to go.
A few times the road signs to Pienza did disappear, but with a little luck we managed to find our way. The road passes through the new part of town first, all modern two or three story blocks that are nice enough. We found a place to park in a side street and walked the 5 minutes in the older part of town.



Once again it is a mediaeval hilltop town; all narrow streets and ancient houses and churches, with battlements offering stunning views over the Tuscan fields way down below. Already the streets were filling up, but armed with our cameras we found the quieter side streets, and a small street café where we stopped to have a cappuccino and some tasty slice of sweet vanilla filled cake.



In the shops we bought wonderful herbed cheese, some sweet dessert wine, some almond biscuits to dunk in the sweet dessert wine (much better than it sounds) and a copy of the most recent London Times; all full of financial meltdowns which may or may not have been avoided.
We then headed to Montepuliciano before everything closed for lunch and siesta at half one. It was only about ten miles, but took much longer as the road at first dived and then rose to another hilltop town come fortress. There is the most stunning basilica at the foot of the hill on which the town sits, and we stopped there to take a few pictures; before deciding to walk up the 1:3 hill to the town above. The views were stunning, and we at least thought we were going to earn the tasty lunch we promised ourselves.




Montepuliciano is even hillier than the other towns; and its streets are a warren of narrow streets and narrower stairways leading to a grand piazza at the summit. There were tourists from all parts of the world, including the young family we had talked to whilst waiting for our hire car on Saturday; they said ‘hello’ and said they were enjoying their time in Tuscany.



We had spotted a café with views out over the land, but as the heat of the early afternoon rose, we stopped halfway up the town in a street café for antipasto and mozzarella salad and a glass or two of water.



Sadly, two tables away the once typical English tourist was making a scene; ‘don’t you speak English? I asked for a glass of water, not a bottle.’ And she went on in a similar vein. Our food, although simple, was wonderful, and the service wonderfully slow which gave us time to people-watch those making their way up the hill to the grand piazza.



We walked slowly back to the car, down the steep cobbled street that we had come up. We passed others making the trip back up, and like us were pretending to admire the view when they were in fact having a breather.



The final destination was Chianciano Terme. Another ancient hilltop town; but this one with a large modern twin built around a thermal spring. The drive was spectacular as it ever is in Tuscany; and although we decided not to stop, we thought of going out onto the plain on which the main road from Rome to Florence runs, as well as the main railway, to a large lake, Lake Trasimeno. There were two ways down apparently; one along the main road where the heavy traffic goes, and I swear there were signs pointing through the town.

Not having learned from our detour the other day, we headed off into the town centre and through the gats of the old town. Very soon the streets narrowed to little more than alleyways, and the signs now telling us no vehicular traffic allowed at any time was of no help.



We headed on until we came to a turn so tight that the old man sitting outside his house had to get up and move his chair and get in his doorway. And we had to shuffle back and forwards in the car to actually get round the sharp bend. The road was then along the old town walls, but at least going down. More people had to get out of the way, but we did at least get through the other set of town gates and onto something like a normal road.



That this new road had no signs, we thought best to follow the wider road down and see where that lead. It lead down and round many farms and vineyards, until it just petered out as a dusty track. We turned round and headed back to the town, where, after turning the wrong way down a one way street, we did find a main road and in turn the way down.

Once there, there was little to do as the lake was not signposted, and so we sat beside the main railway line waiting for the latest in train technology come whizzing past at something a little less than the speed of sound.



And then the journey back; this time through the golden colours of an autumnal Tuscan afternoon. Joining us on their journey home were those who had had a hard day in the fields beginning the olive harvest.

Time enough for some crusty bread and to try out the herby bread with a cup of coffee, before starting work on the evening meal with was spinach and ricotta ravioli and a home made sauce by yours truly, and a glass or two of Vine Nobile de Montepuliciano.

And the sun set, if anything in a more spectacular fashion. Oh, lucky us.