Monday 16th May 2016 (updated)

We had one full day in Takayama, and the day would begin with a traditional Japanese breakfast. Another multi-course meal, with lots of small bowls of food, some more suited to a western dinner, but we tried most of it. Really good was the corn soup, with was lovely and sweet. As much as I try, I can't get a liking for either green tea or miso soup, the latter which is served with almost every meal. Soup for breakfast just doesn't feel right, certainly not a meat-based soup at that.

Kai was perfect as a server, explaining what each bowl contained, and what we would expect. And as ever, the meal was perfectly presented, with each dish, no matter how small, presented in its own little bowl or dish. Eating is really a fine art here in Japan.

We got changed into our western clothes and got ready to go out. Although rain was forecast, it was dry if overcast and warm.

We took the shuttle bus to the station, so we could book seats for the train the next morning, and because it dropped us near to the ancient town centre.

We booked seats on the train back down to Nagoya, and an express back to Tokyo, meaning we would be back in the biggest city just after two, just in time to check into our last hotel.

The area around the station and between the railway and river was a typical modern Japanese town, narrow side streets and with many clothes and convenience stores lining the pavement. We do a bit of window shopping until we come to the river, and on the corner of the bridge there was a cafe, and one that looked quite western. Its not that we mind the Japanese one, but to have something solid, something familiar. Anyway, we go in and the server is a fine gentleman from Vermont who gives us the low down on the town, places to visit. And as a bonus serves fresh pancakes with fresh cream topped with strawberries.

Three of those with coffee, please.

We sat at a table by the window, as the gentleman talked us through what living in Japan was like, and how difficult it is being a vegetarian there, not quite what you would imagine, but many sauces and soups are meat based. I stay for a second, stronger coffee, as American coffee as its called, is pretty mild in Japan.

The old merchant quarter lay over on the other side of the bridge, and was now split into two, with thew closest ones having the old houses converted into shops, whilst the ones down the river retained their charm and appearance and were open to look around. It was, however, tat central. And rammed with people, families, couples and most of all, groups of people following someone holding up either a red flower or an umbrella. And trying to make trade and get past those ambling, were rickshaw drivers, who whilst they pulled their clients gave a commentary and stopped to photograph his charges.

And through this, we tried to force our way, whilst looking for the diamonds in the rough, gifts for friends and colleagues back home. It really was better than I am making out, with many clothes shops and pottery and china-wear mixed in with the usual waving cat statues.

We walk north towards the better preserved and quieter area. Mixed in with all the fine shops. On the way was a tractor repair shop, which is just what you'd expect too see in a toursit quarter, of course. We walk up and down fine cobbled streets past grand merchants houses and temples.

Mixed in with the merchant houses were large gated buildings, stores for what were described on signs as carnival floats. But no British carnival had ever seen flats this ancinet and wonderfully designed These come out and are paraded through the town on carnivals days in spring and autumn, whilst others are stored in the town museum. We walk on.

Well, until it was coffee time at least. We find a place with a carp pond and waterfall in the middle of it, which is the minimum we demand of our coffee shops. Jen's cappuccino had the face of a teddy bear designed into the foam on top. Until Jen poured a packet of sugar into the cup, and it looked like the bear had been in a bad car accident.

We retrace our steps to near the red bridge, as Jools wanted to buy one of the jackets that we wear in the ryokan, but in the only store we found the jackets for sale, store they refused to sell her one as they were for men. Apparently. So, she went back to see if they had forgotten her, says that she is buying one for her husband back home. And all the while Jools and I sit on a street corner watching the world going by; people on bikes, people in traditional costume, people in traditional costume on bikes, people in high-heeled sneakers. You name it....

We wander round some more, but with dark clouds rolling in and our feet aching, we decide to get a taxi back to the Ryokan, which is what we do. Needless to say, Jools and I hit the hot tub for a while. Ahh, this is the life.

I write some, we listen to the radio

That evening, we decide we fancy some more beef shabu-shabu. So, after calling a taxi, we try to explain to him what we wanted. He thinks for a while, then gets his i-phone out and asks it the best shabu-shabu place in town. Which is where he takes us, a big modern building with four chandeliers, which is one more than the minimum we require. Anyway, we order shabu-shabu which, when it comes is not cooked in a pot, but on a griddle, which was like eating thin cut steak, which wasn't a bad thing. And once each piece was cooked, you dipped it in two sauces and gobbled it all up.

Lovely.

In then next booth was a young western family, with three young children, trying to find something on the menu to make their children happy. No happy meals here though, just steak. There were lots of unhappy faces. We enjoy ourselves, however, and have had another fine meal.

And back to the ryokan in another cab, where we play cards yet again and drink more cheap domestic beer from cans chilled in the mini bar fridge.

We know how to live.....