Monday 22nd May 2017

While Sunday was a day for relaxation, Monday was to be a day of action. Or touring anyway, which will have to be the same thing. Although the forecast was for rain from eleven, we thought that having got it wrong the day before, maybe it would be wrong again today. So we planned to drive from the cottage to Broadford, Portree then around the northern part of the island, then round to Uig and back home.

We had a healthy breakfast of cereal and fresh Scottish strawberries, which were wonderful I have to say, then filled the car with coats and cameras and maps, and took the lane down to the main road and then back across the moors to the other side of the island, through Broadford, and for me new places I have yet to visit, as my last trip in 2005, ended here.

The road ran beside the sea loch for some time, so we stopped a few times to snap the views, but after taking a sharp bend at the top of a bay, the road climbed to make its way across a headland before slowing dropping down to another sea loch and bay and the town of Portree itself.

At one point we stopped for yet another spectacular view, stopping behind a camper van, and a voice from inside asked if we wanted tea. Even more amazing what Denis the three legged cat who came out on a leash, and the man on the other end explained he was a hiker, and now was apparently looking after Denis. Poor Denis, having lost one of his back legs somehow, now finds it hard to balance when he has to use the facilities, as it were. Oh, the indignity.

No time to stop, as with the weather expecting to close in at any time, we wanted see the Old Man of Storr and then to Saffin, as Tony’s Grandmother had visited the island in the mid 60s and snapped both places, and he wanted to recreate the shots.

North of Portree the road changed to a narrow lane with occasional passing places, the narrow stretches getting more common as we went further north, requiring us to stop and give way many times, but other do the same for us.

As the Old Man came into view, the whole mountain was illuminated by sunshine, making it look like it glowed. We stop a couple of times with other cars and a bus to take shots before moving on.

North of Storr, we were treated to an impressive display of light, as sunshine pierced the clouds, casting shadows on the sea, shore and mountains all around, it was breathtaking.

And as we entered Staffin, Tony found the cottage from his Gran’s shots, took the shot he wanted, and from there we took the narrow road to the beach, where at low tide dinosaur tracks can be seen in the sandstone deposits. For me, it was enough to see the basalt outcrops all around, the dark sandy beach and kelp that had been washed up in recent storms. I suppose this is what we thought Skye would be, except in Broadford and Portree seem like towns, and the road between them and onto the mainland can be busy, so this peace and quiet, deserted beaches and isolated farms and houses was very much appreciated.

Further on we stop at the Flodigarry hotel for lunch. It is a fine pile on a headland overlooking the sea, apparently too good for us, but we go on. But lunch was not to be served until one, and we really did not want to wait for half an hour, so we have a coffee, and a wee dram for me, before we move off to complete the northern part of the trip and come down the southwestern side to Uig.



The road was narrow in places, and ducked and dived like a roller coaster, but the scenery was stunning, and we all enjoyed the trip. We come down off a hill down to Uig, going round two hairpin bends as we neared sea level, then further along the two lane road started again, but still we had not eaten. But just up the hill we came to the Uig Hotel, pull in and find they have a table free overlooking the harbour below, we order our food: for me venison stew and vegetables, and a drink, and sit and wait for the meal to arrive.

By now the rain had come, and there would be no more stops for photography, just one at Portree to try to find a camera shop, now sadly closed, but I did go into a whisky shop and Jools and Tony clubbed together to buy me a special bottle of Jura.

The rain fell heavier, so we set off south, back along the way we had come this morning to Broadford, then across the moors to the cottage, arriving with a gale blowing and the rain falling in sheets.

We rush inside to find the heating on, and it very toasty and warm. The kettle is put on and brews made, Tony and I review our shots from the day, as another day on Skye slips through our fingers.