Thursday 24th August 2017

Our last day in the mountains, and our last day before we begin the long journey back, at first to Loveland, then to Denver and finally, home. For the morning we had a trip in an ATV booked, not sure really where we would be goj, but it was sure to be fun. And dusty.

We were up and walking to the lodge for eight, saying hello, and then goodbye to the friends me made the night before, as they were all leaving that morning.

Outside it was cloudy, but there was always the confidence that the sun would burn the cloud off meaning more butterfly chasing after lunch once we were back from the trip. We had forms to fill in, waivers for this and that, but with all them filled out, we were waiting outside the lodge for Matt at nine.

After a quick explanation of the controls, we were set to go, following in Matt’s dsty wheel tracks out of the yard and up the service road, before turning right and beginning the climb. I had the honour of driving the first leg, but after 20 minutes let Jools take over as we climbed ever upwards, round hairpin bends until the land opened out, and it felt like we were on the roof of the world. All around were subalpine plants, most having gone over already, but some, tall and robust (and to be identified later).

Sometimes the track was flat and dusty, sometimes it bumpy and rocky, but never dull.

We went down into a valley, where hundreds of feet below there was a bend in a stream and a good area to stop for a break, drinks and snacks. Here, like along the top of the hills, the air was full of butterflies, the usual ones seen down near the lodge, but in huge numbers. We drink from bottles of water, as although there is water all around, sometimes it gets tainted if cattle use it for a toilet, so until there is a known clean source, bottles are drunk from.

Back up the side of the hill, then taking a little used track to the corner of the park where it borders Montana and the Crow Nation have their lands. There was just a fence, nothing more to mark the border. So we look at it then turn for home.

Away in the east, dark clouds had begun to form, and rumbles of thunder could be heard. This brought with it the promise of rain for the lodge, but our pans for butterflying would be scrapped. But first we had to outrun the storm.

Once back on the main track, we could make good time, if on occasion it meant the vehicle took to the air if I hadn’t had time to slow down and we hit a rock or pothole. Rain began to fall, then hail, and we redoubled our efforts to get back home, as dry as we could.

Down in the valley where the lodge lay, sunshine still shone, but that would change quickly. We come off the mountain, through a trailer park, cross the main road and were back. Just in time for lunch.

Veggie burger again from me, and it is surprising how much 5 hours ATVing can fire up an appetite.

Afterwards, we wait for the much promised storm, some more hailstones fell, and that’s about it. By the time I had had a shower to wash the sand and grit out of my heair, the sun was shining again outside, so I went back on butterfly patrol.

Why, you ask. Well, yesterday, Jools snapped, for the second time, a large brown butterfly, with its trailing edge like a tortoiseshell back home. I saw it once but did not get a shot, so this is what I wanted. Anyway, an hour or more I patrolled the flower meadow opposite the cabin, and I saw just about every kind of butterfly except the one I wanted.

I give up at half four, and as Jools said she wanted to go back to Big Horn Canyon to redo some shots, that’s what we did. We had two and a half hours before dinner, and it would take an hour each way to get there. But then we have a Mustang….

Back onto the main road, then down Alt US 14 towards Lovell, soon coming to the huge hill down; 14 miles and an average grade of 10%, it was a blast, along with the views out on the plain below. Down we went, round corners we went, getting lower and the temperatures getting higher. It was 15 degrees at the cabin, and 31 on the plain. All in 5,000 feet.

From there is a was a quick run nearly into town, then a sharp right, past the sugar beet factor, the oil fields and the checmical factory, before the land rises, and glimspes of the river can be seen on the right. All of a sudden we are in a wild west landscape, bright red soil, green shrub.

At The gorge Jools gets her shots and I snap passing vultures, as you do.

Back down the gorge again, and on the road to Horseshoe Bend there are some fabulous bright red rocky outcrops, that looked stunning in the evening sunshine. We go down, bot get shots, thurn round ready for the return trip.

On the causeway over the lake, we could see dozens of white pelecans just floating about. I mean, pelicans!

The the road begins to climb, at frst along two massive straight stretches of road, a couple of gentle turns at first, but if you look up the mountains you can see the road, hundreds, thousands of feet about.

Then the climbing begins, and the corners, and all with cheer drops to the right hand saide, the palin looking like the surface of Mars in the evening sunshine, all red and undulating.

Halfway up the road goes through a gap in the rocks and the plain is lost from view, but there are six more miles of climbing to go, and all the while it is getting cooler.

We turn off to the lodge, it is twenty to seven, we have loads of time, and as we pass the dining room we can see people already with their meals eating away. We park the car, grab a beet and take them to the dining hall, claim our regular table, and wait for the queue to die down.

It lasagne and salad, and there are generous proportions. While outside a couple of deer just saunter pass, making the new arrivals stop and stare. Over in the meadow beyond, two adult moose forrage for dinner, which once I am back at the cabin allows me to get out the big lens and get some shots.

And that is it, we are making plans for the six hour drive tomorrow; where to stop for lunch and maybe take in the city of Casper. We shall see. We have all day, with just a bed waiting for us in the wonderfully named town of Loveland, Colorado.