Day 8: Friday 10th July 2015

Friday

Halfway though our stay up here in the wilds of Northumberland, and as we are staying within sight of the very northern borders of the Roman Empire, we thought we should do some walking.

There will be those of you who are amazed that I would consider using Shank’s Pony, but sometimes it really is the only way to see the countryside. In the cottage were a load of leaflets of places to visit and things to do, and among them was a map of a circular walk that passes the cottage. On the face of it, it looked simple enough, but as we began to tot up the miles, it must have been ten miles long, and we are not really built for speed. Or walking if we’re honest, but we should be able to make it.

We hoped.

The walk took us along the road which passes the house, past the Roman excavations at Vindolanda, then up the hill, which would be a slog; past the lime kilns, across farmland, crossing the busy toad, climbing up and up to Housesteads Fort, then along the wall for four miles, then down into Once Brewed (the village’s real name: and the pub is called Twice Brewed) before back down the hill, and then taking a left down the lane to the cottage.

Simples.

We pull on our walking boot, fill up the water bottle, pack the print of the walk, and the landranger Map; we are set.

The first part is down hill, past Vindolanda and its lovely smelling coffee shop; it would have been a stop too early even for us; 200 yards. And then the climbing began. Up and up, twisting and turning like a twisty turny road, joining a slightly larger lane, climbing up and up. We stop every 5 yards of so to look back, take photos and get our breath. The valley is laid out before us, and as we gain yet more height, we see the cottage, which had been hidden behind some trees.

We come to the lime kiln, which we had passed when looking for the cottage on Monday. We stop to take photos and to read the information board. Lime Kilns are found all over the country, but almost all are now abandoned.

Up we climb along the road, until a sign points us across fields past a farm to the main road some mile or so away. The road is splattered with sheep and lamb shit, you would think they could all poo in the same place. No?

They all scatter as we march past at nearly 2mph, always looking up at the climbs yet to come. Past the farm, there is a descent, but through a gulley we can see up to Houseteads Fort, and the black line on the top of the crags just beyond marking the wall itself.

At least following the path means that we miss the booth for the site, and so do not have to pay. But once we reach the top of the climb at the entrance to the fort, we find that it was English Heritage, and we have our cards with us, so it would have been free anyway.

Inside the museum I buy a couple of ice creams, and so we sit watching the less brave, or stupid, walking up the hill from the car park. Looking at the map, I optimistically think we are half way round. Let’s hope so.

We look round the fort, but after passing just one couple in the first two hours of walking, to be at an area with hundreds of people was a shock. So, we walk on.

The first part is on top of the wall, though a wood, but as you come out into the open, you have to get off and walk beside it. The countryside opens out both sides, and the light gets ever more dramatic as the sun tries to break through.

We have to pass three milage forts and then go on for another half mile before the walk down into Once Brewed; it would take come time.

You could walk beside the wall, or along the military road that was used to supply the forts. After a while, what with the steep climbs and descents, we decide to walk along the road. I say road, it is a track, but the climbs are less steep, and at times you can see the wall up to the right.

It is hard going at times, and our legs were beginning to stiffen up, but we told ourselves we could see the end, and it was getting closer one step at a time. We re-fill the water bottle from a peat-coloured burn, it tastes fine, but the colour looks odd. Anyway, it is nice and cold and perfect for us.

As we near Once Brewed, a mournful bull is lowing, almost constantly, and so causes us some concern. But it sees us and walks away, meaning we can get to the gate safely, and lock it fast behind us.

The final part into Once Brewed is down a quiet lane, then cross the main road, and a 100 more yards brings us to the welcoming doors of the Twice Brewed pub. Inside we slump in the corner, but not before ordering two drinks each; one a fruit juice to satisfy our thirst, and a beer to accompany the cheesy chips we chose from the snack menu.

It was just what we needed, en

ough carbs for energy, but not too many to make us want to stay and have more beer and not step another foot outside. We could have caught a bus, but as we were now so close to the cottage, we could do it; couldn’t we? Indeed we could: one last climb, a surprisingly steep on brought us to the end of the lane, then a half mile stagger down hill to the cottage.

We had did it.

We sat outside in the warm sunshine, took off our boots and socks; Jools made a cuppa and we just sat there, shattered.

We would sleep well.

However, before bedtime, there is the cribbage. Jools started the day, 3-1 up for the week, but in an evening of cat and mouse and so drew the two games at 1-1, bringing the overall scored at 4-2; but still plenty to play for before we head even further north.

We end the day, sitting outside watching the day end and the bats come out, chasing the insects, which up to that point, had been feasting on our blood. So, hoorah for bats.