Friday 18th August 2017

Time to leave Yellowstone, and such a bitter parting. In four days we have felt right at home, and now are able to find bison/elk/ospreys/butterflies/flowers/geysers and whatever, and enjoy looking at them and the drive to get there. The beauty of the park is sensational, and my words cannot due the place justice. Just thankful it was preserved as it was back in the 19th century when the park was created. And we have it now, as it was, roads, lodges, gas stations notwithstanding, and huge parts of it are too remote for all but the most fearless and dedicated trekkers can get to.

It will take months of processing in our heads to comprehend all what we have seen and done, reviewing the pictures. And remembering all what we have done. Heck, we even managed to be fairly active, despite the altitude which had given us such concerns last week.

We were awake at 6 again this morning, we both have showers, then pack and load the car which seems to have shrunk. But it all fits, in time. And we are off. We have to pay the bill first, of course, and once we had done that, instead of setting off out of the park, we turn right and go round the upper terrace drive of the upper terraces of the Mammoth Falls.

We had been here a day or three ago, and it was crowded, so to go back at just after seven would be splendid, no?

We park at the top, with just one other car there, and in the light of the morning sun, which had just risen about the mountains to the east, shining through the clouds of steam from the terraces. There is a wooden boardwalk to take us further to the edge of the drop, pools reflecting the sky and distant mountains, before the final view is from the side of the falls, with terraces, steps and small waterfalls of boiling water,

The as if by magic, a crowd of camera wielding Japanese tourists appear from nowhere, and the peace and tranquility was broken, as they jostled for the best selfie positions, and selfie sticks were brandished like a sword. I had my shots, so we walked back to the car, along deserted boardwalks again.

One last drive through Mammoth Village, then take the road to the north entrance instead of the Loop Road. The road drops quickly from seven thousand feet to just about five, ears popped, and we passed long lines of cars and RVs making their way up the long steep road into the park.

Sadly, after 5 miles we came to the gate, meaning we were leaving the park for the last time. We hope to return one day that’s for sure, maybe in the winter, if visitors then are allowed at that time of year.

There is a large town outside the gate, Gardiner, and we thought we might have breakfast there. Gardner is a OK place, a row of faux western style shops, most selling clothing or providing adventure trips on the rivers in the park. And there was the cafe.

Tables had not been cleared, and the servers had an attitude, but we found a clean table and ordered food and drinks. Jools had biscuits and gravy, as she had seen someone have it the other day and thought it looked OK. But was a disappointment, too much gravy was the verdict. I had eggs with peppers, onions, hash browns, bacon and biscuits. Biscuits are a disappointment to me too. And was served with the worst up of coffee since milky coffee was stopped being served back home. Brown hot water, not improved by cream and sugar.

We walk round the town, at least the frontage looking towards Yellowstone, but there was nothing we needed to buy, so set off for Bozeman, Montana.

The road crossed the Yellowstone River, then followed it along what was called Paradise Valley. Once through the gorge, the valley flattened out, and scrub gave way to farmland, mostly yellowing grass, but some had been watered and looked deep green. The road ran straight for miles on end, with the speed limit of 80mph. We cruised at 50 or 60, enjoying the coolness of the morning as we had the roof down.

We only had a journey of 90 minutes, so we stopped off at the only big town on route, Townsend, Montana, and turned out to be a great decision. For one thing it had a railroad museum, but then I didn’t visit as they had a real live railroad next door, so I could watch freight trains miles long thunder by.

We walk into the town after parking, and found a great collection of buildings, and lots of art shops. Many buildings had old fashioned neon signs still, so I go round snapping them, and some of the shop fronts dating from the 19th century. We visit a great bookshop, and talk long with the owner, then go next door to a coffee shop to make up for the poor one we had earlier. Huckleberry latte with an extra shot, turns out is a king of coffees and worked very well.

We walk back to the railroad tracks and the sound of locomotive whistles were calling, and a freight train that went out of sight down the line was waiting for the road to clear, I snap the front, the wait for the train to come in from the other direction, and then the one nearest moved off, three locos at the front, three in the middle and two at the end, and the train took 5 minutes to rattle by. Amazing.

Over the road there was a bar, in an old hotel building, whose neon sign had lured me in in the first place. I order a beer then change my mind, so the guy brings me two bears. I could have complained, but accept the two beer and an orange juice for Jools.

We soit at a bench overlooking the street and old station building beyond. There were doors, but these had been pushed back, so we sat with a cool breeze blowing in as I drank to pints of IPA. That meant Jools would have to dive to Bozeman.

By two in the afternoon, it was eighty five in the shade, after driving into town, we find a place to park and walk along the “historic” main street. It was too hot to walk too far, we just needed to find a place not McDonalds or Burger King to have lunch cum dinner.

We find a non-chain place, and order non-burgers, but were served in buns. I have some kind of oriental shrimp in spicy sauce. It was good, even better inside the air-conditioned restaurant.

At three we could check into the hotel, so we drive back to the interstate and next to the junction there it was, a chain, but with big rooms and the most most powerful air conditioning in chrisenden. We binge on the free internet, catching up on the news and for me, facebook updates.

As a treat, we go to the local Walmart as I needed a new watch, so buy a fifteen buck Timex special, I am guessing it will last longer than the bag of shit i paid fifty quid for a few months ago. Walmart is an experience, they sell guns, but you need a permit, which makes it OK.

We also have chocolate, more chocolate and beef jerky. All the food groups. And we laze on the big bed, listening to Radcliffe and Maconie for five hours. Sheer bliss.