Tuesday 15th April 2025

Time to move on.

And with it, an actual lay in with breakfast not until eight, and then wheels at half nine.

We had to pack and get ready. But getting up at half six gave us more than enough time, and a sit down breakfast rather than a packed one eaten on the bonnet of a jeep.

Our bags were collected whilst we ate, then given our familiar packed meals, and climbed in the fleet of cars, with Jools and I sharing with the guide.

An half hour journey bouncing along the country lanes, round corners and through villages mostly unchanged for centuries. The elderly mean on benches watched us pass, while they swapped gossip.

Onto the motorway, and heading further north, via a bridge many miles long, allowing wildlife to move freely underneath. Trucks, underpowered at the best of times, crawled up the hill in first gear and engines screaming.

And once at the top of the hill, hour after hour of dried farmland, small villages beside the motorway, and the occasional bridge to break things up.

I could stop and tell you hear, by observation, the rules of the Indian roads, but clearly there are not any. Just don’t stop, don’t give way, and overtake however you can. The horn must be used on every manoeuvre.

Just in case.

After three hours we stopped for a comfort break. Jools and I had an ice cream. Others using the facility looked at us with suspicion. And rightly so.

It was dang hot, so back in the cars and carry on north.

We began to doze, but the driver knew every bump and pot hole on the road, and how to avoid them, he was really rather good.

We found a place that would allow us to eat outside food, that than theirs, so we all piled out and found the pack up had nothing but cold fried food, including fries.

We ate little.

Had more ice cream.

And then for the last leg, over another hill, with ancient trucks crawling side by side to get up, and then struggle to maintain control down the other side. At least one truck ended up hitting concrete barriers and lost its front wheels.

And on to the city of Katni, where we turn off and the fun really begins, as the driver wanted to get to our hotel now, so was overtaking regardless. OK on long straight bits, but on bends and through busy villages, lined with lean-to shops.

The roads were getting narrower and rougher, but we finally saw signs pointing to Bandhavgarh National Park, our next destination.

Finally into the park itself, and turning off down a dusty track, where at the end the gated entrance to the resort was all lit up.

A small army of staff greeted us, gave us a dot on our foreheads, a drink and an ice cold flannel to wash our face. They brought the cases to reception, where we were allocated rooms, and we then told the guys which were our cases, and they were brought along, with us tipping the porters.

We are in a cabin, one of about twenty that ring the main building, set in light woodland with ponds and flowers and lit walkways leading in all directions. Our cabin is fine, the air con on full. We had an hour before dinner.

First course was soup, which was brought out to each of us in bowls, but then went back to the curry buffet with as much naan or papadums you desired to go with it.

Finally, we were told of an even earlier start due to the distance to the park gate, so best get our heads down for the half five start.